For centuries, underwear was not just a hidden layer of fabric, but a true architecture that dictated the rules of the female figure.
From the Middle Ages to the early 20th century, historical lingerie served to shape the human body to fit the aesthetics imposed by fashion, often at the expense of comfort and health.
The corset and crinoline are symbols of this era. By examining these garments, we not only retrace the history of fashion, but also understand how the perception of beauty and the role of women were literally shaped by underwear.
1. The Corset: The Master of the Form (16th - 20th Century)
The corset is the most emblematic example of how underwear has rewritten the female form, from the cone-shaped silhouette to the wasp-waisted waist of the Victorian period.
The Structure and Rigid Support:
- Historical Function: Initially used to flatten the bust, in the 19th century it became the essential tool for creating the infamous wasp waist and lifting the breasts.
- Composition: Made of sturdy fabric and reinforced with splints (whale, steel or bone) to provide the rigidity needed to narrow the rib cage.
- The Revolution of 1900: The development of the modern bra (patented in 1914) marked the decline of the rigid corset in favor of more anatomical support.
2. The Crinoline and the Bustle: Expansion of the Silhouette (19th Century)
If the corset defined the verticality of the bust, the crinoline and the bustle (or tournure ) were responsible for horizontally expanding the lower part of the body.
Volume and Drama:
- The Crinoline (1850s-1860s): A cage made of steel rings that could reach enormous diameters. It replaced layer upon layer of petticoats, (paradoxically) lightening the dress.
- The Bustle (1870s-1880s): After the crinoline, volume moved to the back, concentrated on the hips and lower back. It was a semi-rigid structure that exaggerated the rear protrusion.
3. The Transition to Modern: From Compression to Comfort
The 20th century saw a radical change: underwear was no longer meant to shape the body into an unnatural form, but to support and liberate it.
Elasticity and Functionality:
- 1920s and 1930s: The corset disappears, replaced by light girdles and bras that favor a more natural silhouette.
- Post-war onwards: The invention of synthetic materials such as nylon and elastane enabled the birth of modern shapewear , which offers support and smoothness without the painful stiffness of its predecessors.
Intimate as a Social Reflection
Historical lingerie , from rigid corsets to crinolines, tells a complex story about the female body and its representation in society. Today, underwear celebrates comfort, adaptability, and the naturalness of the figure, evolving from constriction to the exaltation of true form.
Want to know how support has evolved? Discover our collection of bras with differentiated cups: technical, comfortable, and modern support!